Modern indoor bouldering problems require climbers to make big and dynamic movements where co-ordination is as important as strength – equal parts climbing, gymnastics and parkour. It’s an experiment.”, When Percy Bishton was laying out a route for a test event in Tokyo over the winter, TV crews were trying to position cameras to capture the most exciting moments. (Climbers Against Cancer) and the Women’s Climbing Symposium in the past presumably you’ll continue working on those projects/causes going forward? She used fingertips, hips, toes, elbows, knees – every part of the body pushed to its limit. “Each discipline requires huge psychological adaptation. Speed climbing, you have to go into automatic mode and ignore the climber next to you.”, Coxsey is Britain's number-one sport climber and a 2021 Olympic contender, Coxsey’s training routine is punishing – between four and eight hours a day, usually six days a week. Most sport climbers compete in one of three disciplines: bouldering, lead climbing or speed climbing. “I’ve never trained again and again on the same route,” she says. Help me.” Then she burst into tears. Are you missing that broad spectrum of training right now? “I approached the training not from traditional climbing – more from a skill acquisition point of view,” he explains. It’s a cold February morning and Unit E is packed with people – press, officials, fans and her team – all there to hear Coxsey named as Team GB’s only Olympic climbing contestant. Yeah? It makes you realise how fortunate I am living in Sheffield to have a place to climb, walk and swim out on your doorstep. “Climbing on a 40-foot cliff in the Peak District was viewed as training for a 200-foot cliff in Wales, which was viewed as training for a 12,000-foot peak in the Alps, which was viewed as training for a 20,000-foot mountain in the Himalayas.”. I really don’t know. In bouldering you need a problem-solving mindset. Jump to. It's antithetical to much of climbing’s history and culture.”. A wave of pain tore through her. “Three things are most important,” she says. “Your joints are at a really acute angle and so your tendons place more tension on the pulleys, and they can tear, which leaves the tendon flapping around loose. But honestly if there was ever a sport that matched the Olympic motto – faster, higher, stronger – it’s literally climbing.”, When she was three years old, Coxsey watched a TV documentary with her dad on the French climber Catherine Destivelle as she free-soloed towering red sandstone cliffs in Mali, gripping smooth undulations and hanging by her arms and legs from overhangs jutting out at least three metres into the void. “Percy’s job is to be unpredictable,” Pitt points out. At the fourth climb, her shoulder finally gave way. The wall looked like a half-finished game of Tetris, with L-shaped green holds set at right angles. YouTube; TikTok; Snapchat; Olympic motto inspiring Coxsey to be at her best for Tokyo debut Sport Climbing 12 Feb 20 'Faster, higher, stronger' - that's the Games motto Shauna Coxsey will be living by day and night in her pursuit of perfection ahead of her Olympic debut this summer. I’m definitely still processing it. This site uses cookies to improve your experience and deliver personalised advertising. Not really. Yes, we have big plans for the WCS this year being our tenth year of the Symposium we are so excited to celebrate so post lockdown hopefully this will be a big opportunity. For Mission Impossible 4, Cole devised a new Stealth rubber – known as Mi6 – that was able to stick to the glass and steel of the Burj Khalifa in Dubai for Tom Cruise’s climb. Everything is static but your hands are doing loads of different stuff – if you’re doing a crimp, you’re digging into the back of hold, or you might be squeezing a hold between fingers and thumb. for S&C exercises. Below is the first of Shauna's YouTube videos that will prove useful during lockdown. YouTube YouTube channel. The British climber had competed at the venue previously, coming third in 2012 and second in 2014 and ‘15. “At the time, the dogma was that both feet and hip had to be as close to the wall as possible,” Neumann explains. “For the best part of a century, rock climbing existed as part of an overall mountaineering tradition,” British climbing historian Mick Ward explains. See more of Shauna Coxsey on Facebook. Matt Burgess, By Oh my God. Sanjana Varghese, DNA detectives are using new tools to solve decades-old cold cases, They dreamed of esports glory. Early climbing wall The Foundry, opened in Sheffield in 1991 by climber Jerry Moffatt, offered the then-revolutionary format of movable polyester resin holds. I took a few days off as it was a lot to take in, accept and adjust to. How did it feel to know you have made it to Tokyo 2020? 0:38. By Chris Baraniuk. Shauna, a regular social media poster, appeared – quite naturally - heavily impacted by the rapidly deteriorating situation. Coxsey was sanguine about lead, but speed climbing worried her. Below that is an interesting video explaining what her body goes through whilst climbing. Here’s 3 reasons you should go check out my latest YouTube and get your shoulders working. Shauna Coxsey has become the second British climber to win a World Championship medal, placing 3rd in the Boulder World Championships in Hachioji, Japan, today. They have four minutes to complete a 3D puzzle, designed by some of the best climbers in the world to be so mentally and physically taxing that it’s just about possible to solve – but not by every competitor, and definitely not on the first try. As the UK Government extends lockdown, Climber talks to Shauna Coxsey, Britain’s climbing Olympian, to see how her psyche is holding up, how she’s spending her time and her thoughts on the Tokyo Olympics postponement. I decided to train like an athlete, not a climber; I wanted to be in the gym making myself strong for climbing, working with physios, trainers and psychologists.”. DuckDuckGo is fighting back, The Animal Crossing fans running in-game businesses, Inside the 'bullshit' get-rich-quick world of dropshipping, The secret behind the success of Apple's AirPods, Follow WIRED on Twitter, Instagram, Facebook and LinkedIn, By Most Olympic athletes can train so hard on minute improvements, which is fine for a track race. She is Britain's most successful competition climber, having won the IFSC Bouldering World Cup Season in 2016 and 2017. However, you were soon training again after a few days. The more explosive climbers, like Shauna Coxsey, use slaps, jumps and dynos – jumping from one hold to another – as well as dead pointing (the moment in a … You can opt out at any time or find out more by reading our cookie policy. Can you give us an overview of your workouts and say roughly what the split is between them? In the 1960s and 70s, new generations of rock climbers emerged with no interest in reaching mountain summits. Having spent considerable time and effort on C.A.C. “You had people who entered competitions, but you couldn’t call yourself a sportsperson. To win Olympic gold, you have to excel at all three. I find the fitness sessions easy to do as they aren’t super hard they just take time and patience. Within the same year, she finished third in the IFSC World Cup. Across the 90s, shoe soles bent, and toe space tightened to avoid dead air space between the shoe and the toe, improving a climber’s grip. “It was totally crazy to win,” she says, shaking her head. Email or Phone: Password: Forgot account? I do a few bits on my own but I mostly train with my housemates. You’d had a knee operation in late 2019 but seemed to be over that OK and presumably, your Olympic preparation/training was going well? Stephen Armstrong. She bounded a few more feet, reached out for a murky black shape and felt something tear in her shoulder. “Since I started climbing, the sport has changed so many times. Cole worked with Hollywood, providing shoes for stunt teams working on movies from Transformers to Spider-Man. I do a lot of conditioning and I am also doing loads of endurance training. Hold designers carve shapes from the foam to create silicone moulds that they cover in durable, flexible polyurethane. But I did it.”. As an athlete and an Olympian – and remember the Games hadn’t been postponed at that point – she was still in full training mode but it wasn’t proving easy though... On March 16th, seven days prior to lockdown, you posted that although switching into ‘try hard mode’ hadn’t been easy amidst the escalating situation with the coronavirus you’d hit a new Speed PB. It was Walter Parry Haskett Smith’s 1886 ascent of Napes Needle in the Lake District that introduced rock climbing as an activity in its own right, rather than a necessary evil on the way to the summit of a mountain. In lead climbing, they try to get as high up a 15m wall as possible, attaching a safety rope as they go. When the gymnastics/parkour style came in I used to hate jumping around, so I trained on it until I was comfortable. “Finger strength comes from tendons that attach to muscles in the hand and forearms,” says Feehally, who is also Coxsey’s finger strength trainer, in a physio room at the Climbing Works. My performance on speed was great to see everything start to click into place but for now, it is a case of keeping fit during lockdown and working with my team to develop a new plan for Tokyo. The first sport climbing competitions, conducted outdoors, appeared in the 1980s, but the 1990s saw an influx of indoor climbing walls in the UK and US. UK athlete Shauna Coxsey is a peak performer in the world of competitive sport climbing. Arthur has been getting a lot of walks from myself and my housemates as we are all getting out for our daily exercise! We have 2 boards and we also have weights, yoga mats, swiss ball etc. In both, athletes compete on unseen routes against the clock, climbing each wall alone. Still, she remains cheerful. ☕ + = Read about Shauna's #CoticEscapade here: https://… 09/07/2020 Link RT @chrishallitv: Great to speak to @TEAMGBNACRA @shaunacoxsey and @pollyswann about getting to Tokyo, comforting their locked down fans an… Bouldering began in an area of unusual geology around Fontainebleau, south of Paris, where huge boulders of hard sandstone poke out of sandy ground. Coxsey trains at Sheffield's Climbing Works, By I try to always look on the positive side and learn from every experience. W hen I’m approaching a competition, I know all about entering The Zone.Getting yourself in the right frame of mind to compete is absolutely critical. In bouldering, athletes scale a number of fixed routes on a 4.5m wall. I feel very confident in my team and I can’t wait to get back to full training. “That’s what every athlete says, I know, but if you’re a climber you actually do get to the top.”, Google got rich from your data. “I would watch the Olympics as a kid and be inspired, but also feel quite disconnected too,” she says. It wasn’t until Chas Fisher, the Colorado-based founder of climbing wall company Straight Up, hired intern Josh Doolittle from the Rhode Island School of Design in 1992, that the climbing world was introduced to high density carving foam. Add a bag of magnesium carbonate chalk to absorb sweat and other moisture, thus increasing friction and improving grip, and then it all comes down to finger strength – which is complicated, because there are no muscles in your fingers. These foams, which come in a variety of densities, mimic different types of rock – sandstone, granite, limestone, basalt, schist – as well as new textures not seen in nature. James Crabtree, “Climbing has evolved,” Bishton says. In general terms, how as lockdown been for you so far? Had the coronavirus pandemic not swept across the world the Tokyo Games would now be less than 100 days away. Are you ready? Which means I spend a lot of time feeling uncomfortable, but I won’t let anything – from injury to the coronavirus – stop me getting to the top.”, She laughs. As I said earlier, I am really lucky in that my housemates and partner Ned are some of the most psyched people I know and it’s so nice to be surrounded by such enthusiasm. Here are a few ideas to try and keep your upper body working a bit during lockdown. He realised Sharma’s leg was helping him balance in the same way as Old World monkeys with non-prehensile tails – tails that cannot grasp branches in the way that those of spider monkeys can. Climbing shoes have developed a long way from the hefty boots of the original Alpinists. US free climbing pioneer Lynn Hill told Climbing magazine it was like “asking a middle distance runner to compete in the sprint,” while Ward describes speed climbing as “monkey on a stick stuff, no matter how physically impressive. “When it started it was quite boring to watch unless you were a climber. Then their bodies broke down, Listening to your heart might be the key to conquering anxiety, Inside Gravity’s daring mission to make jetpacks a reality, Trump’s TikTok battle heralds the ugly birth of a new splinternet, My weird, nostalgic quest to hunt down a lost online fruit game, They never officially had Covid-19. It definitely helps to have psyched people around and some tunes on real loud! It has taken sport climbing’s entry into the Olympics to really bring it to the attention of elite sport scientists, nutritionists, physiologists and medical researchers, so there’s a rush to play catch-up. Related Videos. Amit Katwala, By The documentary is still online; if anything, the climb looks more complex and dangerous than Alex Honnold’s ascent of El Capitan – the subject of the 2018 Oscar winning documentary, Free Solo. A nd an amazing time, too, quite clearly, for Shauna Coxsey. Sign Up. Gracie Martin NEVER fails to make me chuckle! That's a lot of fun. Follow on Facebook … Becoming its first Olympic champion, UK athlete Shauna Coxsey is a peak performer in the world of competitive sport climbing, By The athlete is kept in isolation, unable to see the wall or their competitors. or. “It’s probably practice, but it feels subconscious to me,” Coxsey says. “That’s the tricky point where the Olympics meets the world of climbing.”. Gracie Martin NEVER fails to make me chuckle! In 2002, Coxsey started wearing shoes by Five Ten, a company founded in 1985 by Yosemite climber Charles Cole that has since been purchased by adidas and now sponsors her. I have been reading a fair bit and doing loads of house jobs that I thought I’d never get around to. She has two climbing walls in her basement, so can train to a certain degree at home, but she can’t replicate competition boulder problems and definitely can’t speed climb. Monday 20th April 2020; As the UK Government extends lockdown, Climber talks to Shauna Coxsey, Britain’s climbing Olympian, to see how her psyche is holding up, how she’s spending her time and her thoughts on the Tokyo Olympics postponement. I’m definitely not pushing myself hard right now! Typically, says Dr Stephen Fealy, an orthopaedic surgeon at Weill Cornell Medical College in New York, athletes take up to a year to recover from a labral tear and, if lucky, regain up to 80 per cent of their pre-injury performance. Although she didn’t realise at the time, she’d torn her labrum, the cup-shaped rim of cartilage that lines the ball-and-socket joint of the shoulder. Shauna Coxsey has qualified in 1st place for finals on Tuesday after the Combined qualification round. As it … She pushed off with her feet, leaping almost her full body length up and over an overhang, dangling from a tiny hold with her right arm while chalking up her left. Some weeks I do more but this is the minimum. Cole’s innovation was Stealth C4 rubber – a patented rubber with a formula as secret as Coca-Cola but almost certainly involving fillers like carbon and clay, and rubber that’s not vulcanized. It was a smart move. THE ATHLETE: Shauna Coxsey. she's now she's like she's been look. With no new deadline to work to and no climbing walls open, she set about improvising a training schedule that she could stick to in the house – and set up a YouTube channel advising frustrated climbers on ways to stay in shape. See more of Shauna Coxsey on Facebook. The abdominal muscles are crucial for stability, especially when the core contracts to keep the pelvis in line with the chest while hanging. “You felt as a climber that you’d never get to that level. Coxsey and her climbing partner Ned Feehally started hacking Five Ten’s popular Anasazi LV shoe, adding patches of the softer Mi6 rubber over the harder Stealth C4. Well apart from when I’m doing the long boring endurance sessions and then I have Netflix on. My training varies from day to day but the main focus for me at the moment is continuing my rehab for my knee and training as well as sustaining my overall fitness. To stay healthy and be ready to jump back into training when the lockdown is lifted. Each print / digital issue and the website is packed with detailed coverage of key news, destination articles, interviews, gear reviews, Regular columnists Caroline Ciavaldini and James Pearson, stunning photography, coaching and training. channel I I I am am am. In those papers that have studied the factors affecting performance, most indicate that it’s a particular way of thinking that ensures success, rather than a strong heart or high aerobic capacity (known as “VO2 max”). It’s weird as I’ve never had this much time. I love training. If you watch apes climb, they are so explosive and jumpy. Team psychologist Tim Pitt warns that the combination of physical and mental challenges across the three disciplines will place severe demands on athletes. Edmund Hillary, meanwhile, trained for his team’s ascent of Everest on tricky sections of Snowdon. She headed back to her hotel room with her training partner and best friend Leah Crane – the two look like sisters, with the same height, same build and same blonde hair – where she tried to take her jumper off. ALWAYS music on. Shauna Coxsey is already world champion of bouldering, but now she has to get to grips with two relatively new elements of her sport when climbing … Accessibility Help. Stephen Buranyi, “There is so much uncertainty in climbing,” Pitt says. Have you set yourselves some specific training goals that you want to achieve during lockdown training? “We’re coming into the world of elite sport, which likes certainty, likes tracking things, and believes there must be a right way of doing things. Follow Shauna Coxsey on her athlete page on Instagram here or here for her YouTube channel or click here for Shauna’s Redbull profile. Lockdown with Shauna Coxsey. I never thought I would say this but I love Speed Climbing and I love exploring a new aspect of our sport. I literally have no idea what she’s gonna come out with when we’re filming and this has to be my favourite episode yet! “But there was no truth in that. Shauna Coxsey, Britain's No 1 rock climber This was going to be quite a significant time in my life. From the 1990s up to 2010, that was fine – but as the walls sloped further and further back and the holds became smoother and larger, they made it hard to climb if all you had were your arms.”, Neumann noticed 90s climbing legend Chris Sharma’s then-controversial technique where he’d stand on one foot and leave the other dangling. “The ideal route is one that only a single person in the competition is good enough to complete, and in doing so tests the outer limits of friction with their shoes and their skin.”, Sam Whittaker, co-owner of Climbing Works, setting a new route, The limits of my shoes and my skin,” Shauna Coxsey nods. In 2016, Shauna Coxsey reached the final of the bouldering competition at the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) Climbing World Cup in Munich’s Olympiastadion. Accepting that the next 12 months or so are all about preparing for and doing the best you can at the Olympics how do you see your climbing after Tokyo 2021? It’s the climbers experimenting with their own bodies that’s testing the limits of everything to do with sport climbing.”, Magnesium carbonate chalk makes for better grip on climbing holds. More recently, huge surreal shapes known as piggybacks and volumes – lifesize features that instantly change the wall’s climbing terrain – have joined the route setter’s toolbox. Matt Reynolds, So different are the disciplines that combining them met with some strong resistance from the sport climbing community. Layal Liverpool, The physiology of sport climbing is unusual. “This is entirely new territory,” he says. You also have to know when you’re doing the wrong thing, give up and try again – on the mat in front of 10,000 people. In the lower body, climbers use the quadriceps to push the lower leg from footholds, the calf muscles to raise the heel when perching on a thin ledge. Research led by psychologists at Bangor, Leeds and Exeter Universities identified a particular kind of mental modelling, which the researchers define as “route previewing”, as central to a successful competitive climb. Press alt + / to open this menu. Welcome to WIRED UK. “Proper competitive climbers didn’t exist in the UK at that point,” she says. She started competing when she was seven, won her first national championship aged nine and competed internationally when she was 13. “Route setting is a creative job, so many are sculptors or creatives and make holds themselves. Her first move needed to be a hard dynamic leap to grab a sheer surface. Coxsey practices at home on a pull-up bar and two Beastmaker hangboards – wide wooden blocks pocked with holes of different width and depth – to improve her strength. “All I was thinking about was getting stronger. On the one hand it’s nice to have the time and space to do other things but I also really miss the routine and structure of training full time. YouTube; Facebook; Twitter; Impressum; Datenschutzerklärung Shauna. Hey everybody, I am psyched to present you a comparison of the climbing styles between the youngster Megan Mascarenas and the great Shauna Coxsey! Leah Crane (left) and Shauna Coxsey scaling a modular wall at Unit E. Traditionally, holds resembled features you’d find in nature. Other brands followed. This keeps the rubber soft and sticky, so it forms around small bumps and bounces back to the original shape. As an Olympian the unfolding events had ripped through your life and changed your entire focus yet you found the energy and presence to post saying ‘Now more than ever, we must think of others’; brave and compassionate words but you must have been totally gutted as an athlete? Those climbers always try to gain control by pulling themselves into the wall and pulling up with the arms. I really don’t know. On her second climb, she faced a wall with ten sharp, angular outcrops. Create New Account. In effect, the moment a sport climber turns and sees a wall, they create a 3D model of the route in their head, calculating which stretches will require the most and the least energy, and preparing for any sections where a fall is likely. I am generally a really positive person. Early life. Have you been able to establish a revised training strategy to handle the postponement? I have been busy launching my new YouTube channel where I aim to share some insights into my life, my training and yes some baking too! Carl Miller. After the publicity around Smith’s 1886 ascent, climbing – then known as Alpinism – spread through Europe and the US. Coxsey, a two-time overall World Cup winner in her favoured bouldering discipline, will be part of climbing’s Olympic debut at Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games this summer. I have had many setbacks in my career through injury and as a team, we are good at changing plans quickly and dealing with those changes. They step out, a buzzer goes, and the clock starts counting down. Climbers are allowed to fall off the wall and start again, as long as they hit the top within 240 seconds, but she made the summit with barely a pause. Join Facebook to connect with Shauna Coxsey and others you may know. No other competitor had made it, and for a second it looked like she might, but her time ticked away and she walked slowly back to her changing room – disappointed, perhaps, but not defeated. Climbers are probably the nearest thing to an elite athlete that’s training all their body equally.”, Jiří Baláš, a researcher at Charles University in Prague, says that running, cycling, rowing and most conventional gym workouts teach the body to perform consistent, repetitive motions, while climbing involves “nearly the whole body’s musculature in very complex movements.”. - YouTube Shauna Coxsey MBE is an English professional rock climber. OK, let’s talk specifics then starting with the Olympics. The more explosive climbers, like Shauna Coxsey, use slaps, jumps and dynos – jumping from one hold to another – as well as dead pointing (the moment in a leaping arc where the body is moving neither up nor down and is the perfect time to grab a specific hold) and rock overs (placing the foot on a high hold and rocking the centre of gravity on to it) to complete ever more complex climbs. I. I forgot the professional kind. Print + digital, only £19 for a year. In 1991, La Sportiva Mythos came up with a tight heel and a rand – a thinner layer of rubber that covers the toe and heel to provide additional friction for hooking. Shauna Coxsey MBE (born 27 January 1993) is an English professional rock climber. The Beastmaker can recreate most holds, and Coxsey is training to avoid a repeat of a brutal finger injury she suffered in 2018 climbing outdoors on a crimp. Log In. On the podium she couldn’t raise her arm to celebrate. Today’s YouTube filming sure was entertaining. Jugs are hooks or bowls that are easy to grab; crimps are small edges only big enough for fingertips; pockets are small holes that fit between one and three fingers; slopers are surfaces that have no lips or edges and where gripping involves pressing the hand down to generate as much friction as possible; and pinches look like a squeezed sponge where thumb strength is key. In fact, the explosive jumps of modern bouldering are just the moves our ancestors were making 100,000 years ago.”. In lead climbing it’s about tolerating pain – the burn in the forearm from lactic acid build-up – while staying focused on the next hold. Had the coronavirus pandemic not swept across the world the Tokyo Games would now be less than 100 days away. Her next challenge is her biggest yet, and something the climbing community has never seen before: in 2021, climbing will debut as a new sport for the Tokyo Olympics, and Coxsey is the only British athlete selected to compete. She had broken her leg bouldering in Switzerland’s Magic Wood and found herself sat on her sofa eating biscuits and realising that if she went climbing too soon, she’d probably injure herself. The crews asked Bishton to position certain holds in front of the cameras, but he refused. Shauna Coxsey can climb quicker than most people can fall. I love being in that space but I don’t know what post-Olympics will look like and I find that so exciting! “At competition level, route setters want the most beautiful and most complicated holds imaginable,” says Percy Bishton, bouldering’s chief route setter at the Olympics and an experienced climber in his own right. If it’s just holds in a line you can see what to do; if it’s an amorphous collection of huge triangles with no visible holds, that becomes harder to solve.”, By People have been clambering up mountains since at least Palaeolithic times, when hunter-gatherers followed herds uphill from winter to summer pastures. As well as practicing on indoor walls, she works with weights and spends a lot of her time focusing on fingers. I have set some goals and set out a rough plan but I am still listening to my body and mind and trying to look after myself. “ It’s almost impossible to plan right now without knowing how long we’re going to be in lockdown for.” Up until now, Coxsey has been training for The Olympic Games. “ route setting is a creative job, so many are sculptors or and! And again on the podium she couldn ’ t wait to get out the. What works, ” Bishton says Ten ’ s the first ever Olympic climbing programme as jugs, crimps pockets! Boring to watch unless you were soon training again after a few ideas to and! Smith ’ s the first of Shauna 's YouTube videos that will prove useful lockdown... Same day that the combination of physical and mental challenges across the world the Games. Am doing 3 sessions of aero on a lightweight boot to add better and! Take curtsying lessons before the ceremony tricky sections of Snowdon “ you walk out, see that climb either! 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